The book must be wrong!

Today’s walk started in the town of Gata de Gorgos, which must be famous for basket-ware judging by the number of shops selling rattan products.  We seem to have adjusted to Spanish time so we didn’t start the walk until 1.30pm, which allowed us no spare time if we went wrong!  It was a 12km walk with a long haul up to just over 400 metres and then down again.  The walk took us over a dry riverbed and then through terraces of ancient olive groves.  The sound of barking dogs followed us, but it wasn’t long before we left it behind.  At one point the path bore no resemblance to the descriptions in the book and, as I said, we had no spare time for mistakes.  After much pondering and retracing of footsteps we decided to follow the main drag only realising at the end we had missed out one of the minor peaks, which was just as well as we didn’t get back until it was almost dark!  

There's green in them there hills!

Here on the Costa Blanca everyone wants to be by the sea and who can blame them with gorgeous seascapes and the mild climate.  But all these people need somewhere to live.  With all the urbanisation there doesn’t seem to be much green, but look more closely and seemingly remote footpaths can be found.  Today we did walk number 7 in the Cicerone Walking on The Costa Blanca book – Castell de Granadella.  And what a gem of a walk it was.   Rated easy to moderate we weren’t expecting to scramble or cling onto chains embedded into the cliff and to feel so far from civilisation.  Thank goodness this hidden valley remains protected by Javea Council from the pernicious onslaught of urbanisation. 

          

Five Miles From Home And Hopelessly Lost!

Magic mushrooms?

This weekend we visited the church at the small hamlet of Salvetat-des-Carts for a Concert de Noel.  The church was full and everyone sang with gusto.  There was mulled wine and cake afterwards.  Whilst parking the car we had noticed a footpath sign so we went back today to investigate.  We had the Najac IGN map, which showed a route past the church, down into the valley and which seemed to link back to the footpath we had seen.  I like a circular walk always hating retracing my footsteps.  Unfortunately the path soon petered out.  The views from here were so different from normal and we soon felt disorientated.  Several barbed wire fences and gates later we found ourselves on the wrong side of the fence in a field full of cows.  Not wanting to disturb them we spotted the road in the distance and decided to head for it.  This was easier said than done as we stumbled down slopes, through brambles and over and under barbed wire fences.  We even had to ford a stream, well we would have done if it hadn't been dry.  Eventually we stumbled onto the road looking like we had been dragged through a hedge backwards - well we had!  We followed the road uphill for half a mile where we were rewarded with a view of Najac - one that we had never seen before. And from there we took a well signed footpath back to Salvetat-des-Carts without having to climb over any more barbed wire fences.

The way was blocked!

Najac

Castanet PR1

It is always special walking from our own front door.  We bought this book from the library at Varen and yesterday we did our first walk from it.  We were looking for a new walk we could do without getting in the car.

It was a beautiful day, more like summer than autumn so, we packed a picnic and headed up the Mazerolles footpath to join the route.  It is a three hour circular walk.  We were astounded to find that, although we thought we knew the area well, most of the walk was along footpaths new to us.  We stopped for lunch at the charming hamlet of La Piale.  We didn’t see a soul, apart from a lone hunter who assured us that it was safe to continue and, towards the end, about 30 motorcyclists!  This being France, we all respected each other’s enjoyment of the environment, which meant we didn’t get shot at or run over!  It was a delightful walk, enhanced by the golden autumn colours and the fact that we were on new territory.

On Pech Maurel the highest point at 504m

Lunch spot at La Piale

LA ROCHELLE

A spare night en route to the UK late September meant we had time for a quick stopover at La Rochelle, which has been on our list of places to visit for a long time.  Everyone we spoke to said how much they loved La Rochelle so we were pleased to find that it lived up to the hype.  We arrived on a busy Saturday afternoon and struggled to find our way through the maze of one way systems.   We stayed at the Entre Hotes, which was located in a tranquil street, but just a short walk to the centre of things.  

On Sunday we did the historic town walk recommended on the map from the tourist office, ending up at Restaurant Andre where we ate the best fish meal we had eaten in a long time.  It was a shame the visit was so short, but at least we’ve still got lots to discover next time!

From the Viaur to Cheval du Roi

The walk was graded difficult in our walking book (walk no. PR34 in L'Aveyron a pied TopoGuides), probably due to an unrelenting climb of 1,200 feet.  It started at the valley bottom by the River Viaur and it was such a beautiful spot we decided to have lunch first.  Sitting with a picnic overlooking the river we saw the unmistakable iridescent blue of kingfishers streaking past.  We thought we knew this river so well, but this stretch was unfamiliar.  

The path followed the road for a bit, gradually climbing away from the river.  Then it was straight up via an old mule track.  We gained height fairly quickly, but even so it was a long slog uphill to reach the Cheval du Roi.  Some of the landmarks were familiar to us from when we took part in the Marche Gourmande at Lescure Jaoul (see blog post from July).  The villages on high looked desolate now with all the holiday homes shut up.  The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful, but hard to capture on camera.   

The path circled around the Cheval du Roi before heading back down.  A mistake where we turned left when we should have turned right ended with us being confronted by a couple of loose guard dogs – not a pleasant experience, but at least it forced us to turn back and thereby realise our mistake.  We should have turned right and walked behind an old chapel (Chapelle de Murat), but a parked truck was obscuring the sign (well that’s our excuse!)  There were sounds of work being carried out inside the chapel and Richard, spying someone, stopped to check we were going the right way.  The man invited us in to look at the chapel.  

Plaster was being chipped away inside by a group of volunteers to reveal ancient frescoes.  The volunteers were all from the troisieme age, French, except for an Irishman who joked that he was in charge of the wheelbarrow and just did as he was told.  They were so kind and welcoming even offering us a drink from their cool box.    It was interesting to learn some of the history of the Chapelle de Murat and that of the ruined Chateau de Roumegous, which stood above.  They expect the renovations to be completed next year and we promised to go back and see the finished result.  They posed for a couple of photos before waving us on our way.  It was only 30 minutes back to the car from here, but by now our feet were hurting.  

Chateau de Roumegous

When we got back to our picnic spot we were joined by a couple walking with a donkey.  They were obviously settling down to camp for the night so we left them to enjoy the last of the sun’s rays.  Another great day in and above the Viaur valley, a place we love so much.    

Back to Begur

Is it boring to keep going back to the same place each year?  There’s no denying that the familiarity of this place makes us feel instantly at home, which is perfect when you are on a short break.  It means we know where to stay and where to eat, without the usual trailing around inspecting the restaurants only to find they haven’t got a table free anyway.    We have never visited in season before so the sight of the crowded beach at Sa Tuna was a new one.  Never mind, we knew that if we took a short walk uphill and then a scramble down the cliffs through a steep gulley we would be rewarded by a small un-crowded sandy beach.  How nice it was to rest our backs against the rough rock and to sit and read or look out at the boats anchored in the bay.  The swimming was perfect too.  On our last day a smiley Spanish lady who had been busy handing out food to her family came over to us with a Tortilla sandwich insisting we take it.  It was delicious and far better than our usual fare – we normally make do with a bag of nuts.  We felt awful as we had nothing to give in return and we couldn’t communicate how grateful we were for her kindness.  We kept exchanging smiles though so I think she knew. It was a petit moment; another experience to add to our beautiful memories of Begur.  

The 11th Marche Gourmande at Lescure Jaoul

Lescure Jaoul in the distance

This was the third time we have taken part in the Lescure Jaoul Marche Gourmand, a gastronomic walk which takes you to each course of your meal over a distance of 13km.  This year the organisers provided a map of the route.   After the heat wave of the last few weeks the temperature was perfect for walking and even dropped to a chilly 14 degrees when the sun went down.  

The stop for Entree

Cows silhouetted against the horizon 

Lescure Jaoul is a small village on the edge of the Massif Central and the route overlooked deep gorges and wooded valleys.  The highest point of the walk was Le Cheval du Roi at 623 metres.  The spot chosen for our Entrée was picture perfect with far reaching views and the sun beginning to set.  

This year 1,200 people took part in the event.  The last stage is done in the dark and I always find it magical watching the procession of torches wending their way up through the night to Lescure Jaoul and dessert.       

Nostalgia

Setting out - our destination the peak in the distance

It never ceases to surprise me how much one can do in a day.   With part of a bank holiday weekend free and the weather looking settled we headed off to the Pyrenees for a day’s hiking.  It was made easier by the fact it was possible to drive the car up most of the mountain to the start of the walk at Bout de Touron (1,450 metres).  The walk is no. 20 from the Topo Guide Midi-Pyrenees a pied.   The nearest town is Foix, which is the final destination along the Sentier de Cathare - another walk on our “to do” list. 

From Foix you take the D421.  Parking the car where the road runs out, you head up to the track, turning right along the ridge.  Really, you can’t go wrong, although it wouldn’t be easy to find your way in mist.   As the clouds parted, the unexpected panorama of the snow-capped mountains before us took my breath away.   Then, as if this wasn’t reward enough, a group of semi-wild horses came galloping past.  Ridge walks are a favourite as they are all about views and I like a good view.     This one was particularly nostalgic as we were looking at the mountains and valleys we had walked as part of our traverse of the Pyrenees ten years ago.  

On the summit!

We walked above the snowline and made it to the summit of Rocher de Batail (1,716 metres) in the allotted time then, it was time to retrace our tracks back to the car.    We even had time for a drink in Foix in the late afternoon sun.

Looking back along the track

Cheval de Merens (black prince of the Pyrenees)

Springtime in Paris

Last weekend we made an impromptu visit to Paris.  It had been many years since we last visited and it reawakened our love affair with the city.  Unfortunately it seemed to reawaken the whole world’s love affair too by the look of the long meandering queues for all the main attractions.   Getting an ice cream was impossible!   After a quick visit to Montmartre – my favourite spot, we decided to avoid the honeypots and explore other parts of the city.  

Place des Vosges

We discovered the Place des Vosges, where the whole of the City seemed to be enjoying the sunshine.   We wandered the streets of the Marais quarter, soaking up the lively atmosphere and enjoying performances by street musicians.

We promised ourselves we wouldn’t leave it so long next time mind you, we said that ten years ago!  

A tale of two river walks

Both walks involved a river, but they couldn’t have been more different.

The first walk was flat.  The second walk was hilly.

Lunch for the first walk was a pint in a pub.  For the second walk lunch was a picnic overlooking a beautiful view of the valley.

On the first walk we saw lots of people.  On the second walk we didn’t see a soul.

On the first walk the banks of the river were a carpet of yellow daffodils.  On the second walk it was pale lilac wild flowers that provided the colour. 

The first walk was last week along the Thames path from Marlow to Hambleden.  The walk took about 5 hours including breaks.  It was a perfect spring day.  The walk is a circular one crossing over the weir at Hambleden lock.   The path takes you through the Culham Estate and beneath the impressive façade of Culham House.  There is a great pub about half-way – The Flower Pot, a traditional unpretentious place with local beer.  We happened to arrive there at lunchtime – perfect. 

Culham House

We chose yesterday, for our second walk.  It turned out to be the hottest day of the year so far in our region of France.   The walk, rated medium difficulty is three and a half hours, 13 kms in length and was another one taken from Le Lot apied.  We parked in the hamlet of Sauliac-sur-Cele.  This tiny hamlet used to boast two impressive schools, both closed in the 1970s, just like the one we live in.  The fields surrounding the hamlet  must have been very different then, full of agricultural workers.  Now the fields were empty.   

It was a gentle ascent up on to the causse, through a wood of moss draped trees.  On the way up there were views across the Cele valley to Sauliac-sur-Cele.  A circular walk, it eventually came back down to the river where we followed a narrow path through the trees.

Both walks ended in a shopping trip, the first a trip to Waitrose the second a trip to Leclerc!

Limestone Country

The day held the promise of spring and so we set off to The Lot Valley to do walk number 4, Sur les traces d’Andre Breton in the book Le Lot a Pied.

Parking the car in the village of Bouzies in the Lot Valley the path was easy to find running by the river Lot.  It was a GR path so well marked with red and white flashes. It clung to the cliffs and, in places, there was overhanging rock making you feel as if you were walking in a three-sided tunnel, with the river Lot rushing by.  In places springs surge through the rock and tumble down to the river.  There was an inscription halfway along and shapes and animals had been carved into the rock.  The rock here had been polished smooth and shone like marble.  A tiny stone house, shuttered and closed for the winter, was surrounded by primulas growing profusely in the garden. 

The path then forked right and it was a climb up into St Cirq Lapopie.   The path kept going up and soon we were at the same level as the ancient viewpoint above the village.  It was then a mixture of track through the Causse and goat pasture, ending with a tarmac road leading back to Bouzies.  It was a fabulous three hour (although it only took us a little over two hours!) circular walk on a perfect day.

La Gomera - A Walkers' Paradise

We arrived on the island at night.  We were staying at the Hotel Tamahuche in the small town of Vallehermoso, located in the north of the island and an hour’s drive on sinuous, but well maintained roads.  I love arriving somewhere at night.  I enjoy the anticipation of wondering what the morning will bring.  It brought low grey cloud!  Standing on the terrace outside our room we marvelled at the steep terraced hillsides, neatly cultivated.  The tops of the hills disappeared into the mist.  It was a lush damp place, a place for growing things, primarily bananas, although oranges, lemons and avocado pears also grew locally.  Our host, Jordi, provided the best breakfast of the holiday.  He was an enthusiastic walker and talked animatedly about his favourite walks on the island. 

Having a car meant we were able to escape to the sunny south of the island.  The first walk was a two hour descent, full of sunny seascapes, goat bells and goat smells, into the small resort of Valle Gran Rey, where people were swimming in the sea.

The next day’s walk was more of a challenge - a circular four/six hour walk from Taco, a small hamlet on the outskirts of Playa Santiago, to Benchijigua.  It was a steady climb to Benchijigua, following the parched river bed.  It was like walking through a forgotten valley.  Presiding over the valley was Roque de Agando (1,251 mtrs).    It was a pretty walk with the first almond blossom flowering on the trees and exotic flowers and plants dotted over the hillside.  The sun was shining and the ascent made for thirsty work.  We had hoped there would be a bar at Benchijigua.  There wasn’t.  Benchijigua consisted of a clutch of abandoned and semi-occupied houses and a small white-washed chapel standing serenely on a promontory.  The door was locked.   The walk from Benchijigua was over a wide grassy path with wild purple flowers and lots of bees and bee hives.  The grassy path was soon replaced by rock and then an accent of 600 metres, which came as a bit of a surprise and made me realise how unfit I was.  Then it was all the way down until we met the road and followed it back to Taco.   

On both walks we were joined by Adrian and Zoe, a couple of keen walkers also staying at Tamahuche.  They were great companions, Richard had found someone who loved porridge as much as he did, and the time passed quickly as we chatted easily. 

On our last day we managed a short hike up to the highest point of the island, Garajonay (1,487 mtrs) where it was possible to see Tenerife's Mount Teide in the distance.  A huge forest fire devastated this area back in 2012, but already there were signs of regneration.  

There were signs to trails, including a GR (long distance) path, criss-crossing the island and our only regret was not being able to explore more of them.  La Gomera is a walkers’ paradise and we will be back.