California Dreaming

First impressions of San Diego were good.  The city is located on the shores of the Pacific ocean.  Everyone seemed relaxed and friendly.   But I only got a glimpse of the city as only there for the night. We had arranged to hire a car so that we can drive out to the Grand Canyon.  We've been given a bright red Mustang!!! 

We left San Diego and drove to La Jolla.  The beaches here are popular so the roads were busy.  I couldn't believe the number of cormorants, pelicans and seagulls  scattering the rocks and then on the boulders below were seals and sea lions sunning themselves completely unperturbed by the snorkelers and swimmers.

I was impressed by the chipmunk until I heard someone whispering 'look at that woman taking a photo of a squirrel!!' After having a truly tasty lunch in the Whisknladle restaurant we headed for Julian where we are staying tonight in the Eaglesnest B&B.  Julian is an old gold mining town and couldn't be more different to La Jolla!  We've stocked up on plenty of water ready for our traverse of the desert tomorrow - it's at least an 8 hour drive to the
Grand Canyon.

A Walk With William

We last did this walk in April 2013  - see earlier blog post:-  

http://ninetoednomad.blogspot.fr/2013/04/a-walk-down-aveyron.html.  

Then we were lucky enough to see our first otter in the Aveyron River.  No such luck today, although we did spot a deer in the woods at the start of the walk.  The climb uphill took us 45 minutes – we must be out of condition!  As we got to the top, we joined the GR36 on a broad track, where there is a beautiful view of Najac.  The track becomes a tarmac road as it goes through some houses (Le Bastit).  This is where we picked up William!  We tried to reason with him that we were going on a long walk, but he kept following us!  There are GR red and white flashes to mark the way.  After about 25 minutes you turn left at a junction – again it is signposted the GR36.  After 10 minutes you turn right on the Chemin des Enfants where the trees are festooned with toys.  Now there’s an idea for all those pre-loved toys!  

Continue on the path as it goes downhill over a stream and then through a conifer forest.  Ignore the first right fork uphill and keep going straight.  Take the next right fork still on the GR36.  Eventually you will arrive on the edge of Mergieux holiday village.  Since we did the walk last April Mergieux has closed and now looks rather forlorn.  The path now runs downhill to the river Aveyron.   Turn left (right follows the GR36 towards Laguepie).  

We stopped on our usual rock for our picnic – last April the river was so swollen our rock was submerged.   The rest of the walk was a nice easy one by the river back to Najac, the only obstacle being crossing the railway bridge – we had to improvise and so made the rucksack into a lead for William!   

The walk took us longer than usual (5 hours), probably because we sat and pondered along the way, absorbing the movement and life along the river.  And what about William? Well lucky for us he had a collar with his name and telephone number on so we took him home while we made the call.  Unlucky for us the telephone number didn’t work!  So we ended up driving him back to the spot he had joined us where he was reunited with the man who was looking after him – his owners are away.    We were sad to see him go.

The Aveyron Valley Bowl

Najac stretched along the ridge

This weekend we stayed even closer to home – in fact the walk started from our front door!  We followed the yellow flashes of the local PR path.  It is a circular walk descending deep into the Aveyron valley to the river and then climbing back up over a rocky track to the hamlet of La Loubiere.   The walk is detailed in the Topo Guide – Les plus beaux villages de l’Aveyron a pied.  We chose the 9km circuit (walk no. 20).   It is one of my favourite local walks.   Much of it is along quiet roads.  The route takes you past La Singlarie where our friends run an organic farm.  For the most part, the walk rewards the walker with stunning views of Najac and its castle.  As we descended we spotted a bank of wild strawberries, which we feasted on (okay there weren't that many and they were tiny, but oh so tasty!) The climb back out of the valley gets your heart pumping, but it is worth it for the vast panorama when you reach the top.  Occasionally, on a clear winter’s day, you can see the snow-capped Pyrenees looming on the horizon. 

Lunch!

Wild flowers

The Lot Valley

Last weekend we did a wonderful walk in the Lot valley.  It is from the book Au Coeur de la Vallée du Lot, Collection les belles balades de l’Aveyron : 22 balades à faire à pied, à cheval ou en VTT (walk number 14).  We’ve got several of these books and they have some beautiful walks in them as well as listing some interesting historical facts about the area.  They are of course in French.  The books are available from Tourist Offices.  This one cost about 6 Euros.    

12kms in length, the walk starts and finishes in the town of Bouillac.    The walk begins with an ascent (about 300 metres in total).  There are some perfect places for a picnic en route with sweeping vistas over the river and beyond.  After reaching the top, the path stays on the plateau for a while.  We were lucky to see a new-born calf take his first unsteady steps.   The path then descends over a rocky path towards a road – again the views were stunning.  The wild flowers that dotted the hillside gave splashes of colour.   There is a short stretch along the main road and then you cross a bridge over the river before taking a shady path on the right that runs next to the river over level ground.   After about an hour you take another bridge back over the river to Bouillac.  

Everywhere seemed shut, but then we spotted a bar that was open so we were able to reward ourselves with a cold beer.   

Begur, Costa Brava

Last weekend saw us making our annual visit to Begur on the Costa Brava.  We stayed in the family run Hotel Rosa, where we always try to stay.  And we did the scenic walk from Begur down to Sa Tuna where we sipped beer and ate boquerones and watched the wind whipping up the sea in the normally tranquil bay.   The next day, in glorious sunshine, we walked along the coast to Sa Riera and then back inland on GR92 path (the same walk we did last year see early blog entry).  In the evening we took a hike up to Begur castle. 

 

In 1577 a general royal permit was announced to build towers for defence against pirate raids and so the area is dotted with these stone defence towers.  The towers usually had two or three floors and the occupants used a removable ladder to climb up to the upper floors.   Stones and other heavy objects were kept on the roof to throw down at enemies.  Many of these towers have been restored and now form part of posh villas.  Begur has some beautiful colonial houses.   Many of which were built by inhabitants of Begur who returned after making their fortune in Cuba.  There is one for sale with a whopping price tag of 2.9 million Euros!  I think we’ll stick to visiting!

The snow-capped Pyrenees in the distance!

A Walk In The Chilterns

We revisited this walk last weekend for the first time in five years.  It is a circular walk  much of it through wooded terrain.  The last couple of miles are along the valley floor. (link to map).  The sun was shining and it really felt like spring was on its way.  We parked the car in the quaint village of Hambleden.  Leaving the village we crossed the main road and followed the footpath sign up into Ridge Wood.  We saw a herd of deer – the most we have ever seen in one group.  (The photos aren't great!)  

We continued walking now through Great Wood.  The path descended into a valley where we follow a main track.  This track used to be rough and stoney, but is now tarmacked.  We saw lots of Red Kites soaring through the air (tried to take a photo, but missed!)  The path took us back into Great Wood and then Kimble wood.  One section was extremely muddy and the going was slow as we clung to anything we could to stop us sinking and sliding.   The final climb is rewarded with views of the windmill at Turville (the village where they filmed Vicar of Dibley).  The path then descends to the road at Skirmettt.  As we descended into Skirmett we could see the swollen Hamble brook twisting below us.   There is a good pub at Skirmett – the Frog.   The walk continues along the valley floor back to Hambleden.

It’s funny, although we haven’t done this walk for many years, the route soon came back to us.       

The walk is about 10 miles in length and took us 4 hours (including a break at the pub – of course!)   

Trang Province - The Deep South

We had heard most tourists headed for Krabi and that the beaches were crowded.  We therefore flew to Trang.  Trang is famous for rubber, oil palms, fisheries and now underwater weddings!  We stayed for one night in the Thumrin Thana Hotel a white monstrosity overlooking the town.  Trang didn’t detain us so the next day we caught a taxi  to Hat Chang Lang and the Anantara Si Kao Resort.  We had booked to stay at the Anantara for four days.  To be honest, it did feel like a resort, but was big enough that it never felt overcrowded.  The staff were attentive, friendly and helpful.  It was a great place to relax – made more so by the fact we were upgraded to a suite!  The hotel is set on the mouth of a river and is exposed to tidal fluxes.  At low tide you can walk for 200/300 metres out into the ocean and all kinds of marine life are exposed.  At high tide sea offered perfect swimming in crystal clear water.  In the distance you can see small islands, their limestone cliffs rising from the Andaman Sea.  It is possible to borrow kayaks from the hotel to explore the nearby mangroves. 

Instead, we borrowed bikes and explored the coast.  From Pak Meng pier down to the mouth of the Trang River runs approximately 30kms of lovely beaches with surprisingly little development as the shoreline is part of Hat Chao Mai National Park. 

As the tide turned and the sun set we would watch fishermen and women wade out into sea to gather in their fishing nets and crab pots.  More often than not the nets would be empty.  

Each day a speedboat would take guests to the island of Ko Kradan.  We were happy to enjoy the tranquillity of the beach and pass on the trip, but on our last day we decided to go.  Ko Kradan has white powder-like sand and turquoise water full of tropical fish.  While snorkelling in shallow water I saw fish in a myriad of colours.  Unfortunately, at midday boats arrive and disgorge huge numbers of visitors and the fantasy of a deserted paradise island is shattered.  However, if you are prepared to walk over to the other side of the island it is possible to find an empty beach.  Be warned that if the sea is rough the ride back is bumpy and it’s best to sit in the back of the boat!

Displays made of the rubbish washed up on Ko Kradan

All this plastic makes you think.

Sawat dii kah Thailand!