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The Capitol |
Cherry blossom and panoramic vistas
with striking monuments will be my abiding impression of Washington. It’s not what I had expected.
On Easter Sunday we watched people
rushing to church, young and old, all dressed in their Sunday best. The neighbourhood we wandered through looked
surprisingly English with Victorian type houses and neat front gardens.
Downtown was different. Here you felt the
hustle and bustle of city life. The roads were still wide and the buildings not overly tall so you weren’t
hemmed in. The pavements were busy though and I nearly went flying when I got between a lady and her lunch venue. She yelled "excuse me Ma'am," as she walked into me.
Food is important. It came in different varieties and sizes to fit all budgets. There were eateries everywhere, fast food
vans, salads, sushi, Mexican, lobster and of course hamburgers. Each morning we went for breakfast at The Corner Café Bakery. We thought this would be straightforward, but we were always bewildered by the choice. Making ourselves understood was difficult and we never understood their replies. In the end, I ordered the same thing every morning - a fresh berry yoghurt parfait, which was delicious. We
would sit in the same seats at the window and watch people hurrying from Union Station to work
with their take-out coffee. The homeless would scurry in, furtively looking over their shoulder as they
helped themselves to drinks, filling up whatever receptacles they had to last
them through the day. The managers of the establishment turned a blind eye, which seemed the charitable thing to do.
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The Washington Monument |
It's a very walkable city and on our first
day we walked about twenty miles. We started from Capitol Hill and walked down
The National Mall, taking
in The Washington Monument, a towering 555ft pinnacle stark white against the blue sky. The World War II Memorial had a huge water feature and was a popular place to sit.
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The Lincoln Memorial in the distance |
The Lincoln
Memorial was crowded, but provided a good view of the Mall and the Reflecting Pool. The Vietnam Memorial seemed understated yet extremely moving. The volunteers answered questions with patience and sensitivity. We walked across the border to Virginia and
wandered around Arlington Cemetery, which was so vast that we missed J F Kennedy's grave with its eternal flame. We walked to Georgetown – a
lovely neighbourhood with Victorian houses and a happening vibe. Then it was on to the White House, where we
joined the crowds gazing across the rear lawn while a security man with a
gun patrolled the roof. I was sure the President was going to appear, but our feet ached so we didn’t wait.
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Vietnam Veterans Memorial |
The Reynolds Centre, which houses
the American Art Museum and the National Portrait Gallery, was one of my
favourite places - paintings by David Hockney, Picasso and an Andy Warhol, all set in an historic building with cosy nooks where one could sit and contemplate. In its centre is a vast atrium where I tucked into a delicious mandarin cheesecake.
The Smithsonian group of museums
are all free. There are so many that it could keep you occupied for days. We
went to the American Indian Museum, The Air and Space museum, The National
Gallery of Art – both East and West Buildings.
The East Building is undergoing renovations, but even so, the space was
full of light and felt exactly right for the modern art on display. There is a moving walkway with twinkling lights linking the
old building to the new.
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Alexander Calder's incredible mobile in the East Building |
I spent a happy
hour sitting in the Sculpture Garden in the sun, under the watchful gaze of one of Louise
Bourgeois’s giant spiders.
The Kennedy Centre hosts free
concerts each day from 6pm. We walked
there – not to be recommended as we ended up on a freeway! We eventually arrived just in time to see The
Howard Gospel Choir. It was standing
room only and we happened to be standing next to a lovely lady who couldn’t believe we
had arrived on foot. She told us how lucky
we were to be seeing such a good choir. She also told us about the free shuttle bus running between the Centre and Foggy Bottom metro station - my feet breathed a sigh of relief! Part way through the concert some seats became free and we ended up in the second row so we were indeed lucky. It was an experience I’ll never forget and
one of the highlights of our stay. We went back to The Kennedy Centre on our last evening to see The National
Symphony Orchestra with a solo performance of Brahms Violin Concerto by Nikolaj
Znaider - a stellar performance in a stunning environment.
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Howard Gospel Choir |
The cherry trees along the Tidal Basin were beautiful, (it was the
National Cherry Blossom Festival) and the banks were packed with visitors posing for their cherry blossom photo. The
Martin Luther King Jr Memorial is located here among the cherry trees with the water sparkling in the distance. It is the newest memorial on the Mall and the first
one to honour an African American.
We took a tour of The Capitol –
the Rotunda was undergoing renovations, but this didn’t detract from our
experience made all the more interesting by our enthusiastic guide. Afterwards
we wandered through the botanical gardens admiring the exotic orchid
exhibition.
Opposite The Capitol is The
Library of Congress. It is a spectacular
building and I chose a quiet time to visit, which meant I didn’t need to queue
to see the reading room – setting for the film All The Presidents Men
apparently.
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The Reading Room at The Library of Congress |
Sadly we weren’t able to do a
tour of the White House as it is necessary to book tours weeks, if not months,
in advance.
Lunch on our last day was at Rosa Mexicana where they prepared guacamole at our table - delicious! After lunch we wandered through the cherry trees on the Mall. They were past their best and we felt lucky to have seen them a week earlier.
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Start of the week |
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End of the week |