Flagstaff and Palm Springs two very different cities!

Ancient Puebloan dwelling

It took us about three hours driving to reach Flagstaff from Monument Valley.  En route we stopped off at the Wupatki NationalMonument, which protects the ancient dwellings of Puebloan peoples.  Whilst having a look at one of the ruins we passed a woman who had collapsed due to the heat - the temperature was just over 100.  The park rangers were with her, but it was a stark reminder of the need to carry water even if only embarking on a short walk!  

The visitor centre housed information on the Native Americans, in particular the Navajo tribes.  An exhibition told how they had lost their land, which had arisen because, as an incentive to settle the west, railroad companies were granted ownership of huge tracts of public domain land along their routes. 

lava flow

Further into the park is the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, which features a 1,000 foot volcanic cone and its lava flows (the picture isn't great!)

Flagstaff is a charming town.   It is located on the original Route 66 and is about 75 miles from the Grand Canyon.  It is home to the Lowell Observatory, which is famous for confirming the existence of the planet Pluto.  With its high elevation (nearly 7,000 ft) the temperature was a pleasant 79 degrees when we arrived (it was the first time we had seen temperatures like this since leaving San Diego!) We spent a relaxing morning wandering the streets looking in all three of the huge walking stores there.  In the afternoon we visited the Museum of Northern Arizona, where we learnt more about the different Native American tribes in the area.  We also learnt that there are mountain lions roaming the area, which explains this road sign we saw in the Grand Canyon (I thought it referred to bobcats!)  We visited Walnut Canyon, but unfortunately they close the path at 4pm on the dot so we missed it by five minutes.   We were able to do the short rim walk and look at the cave dwellings far below us. 

We stayed in England House B&B.  Our hosts were wonderfully welcoming.  The gourmet breakfasts were amazing.  We had only intended to stay one night, but were seduced by Flagstaff so stayed for two.  We ate dinner in Carillo, a Latin restaurant where the food and wine was so good we decided to go there the following night too.   

PALM SPRINGS

Palm Springs is about a six hour drive from Flagstaff and two hours from San Diego so it made sense to spend our last night there.  Located in the middle of the desert, with its manicured lush green lawns, golf course and countless swimming pools it had to be seen to be believed.  Purpose built for pleasure, it couldn’t have been more different to Flagstaff!  It is surrounded by arid mountain peaks, which probably helps to protect it from the sprawl of further development.  Every Thursday evening there is a night market in downtown Palm Springs so we had a wander.  The temperature at night was still uncomfortably warm.  We ate a delicious meal at Ruben and Ozzy’s; while a soft spray of cooling water wafted over us (these cooling sprays are not good if your hair is of the frizzy type!)  It seemed wrong to be treating water in such a frivolous way, but we were told that water rates in Palm Springs are cheaper than in Oregon!  Palm Springs is located above a natural water basin, which may explain why water is in such a plentiful supply.  There was a lot more we could have explored, including a ride on the aerial tramway, but we were only there for a short time and the temperature was 115^oF!  Thank goodness for the Desert Riviera Hotel – a quiet oasis. 

Monument Valley

When I was growing up we watched a lot of cowboy films.  The scenery at Monument Valley is exactly as I’d imagined cowboy country.  It turns out a lot of films were made here in just five square miles.  The view is awe inspiring, the sandstone peaks and pinnacles (buttes) rising from the terracotta coloured valley floor up into the blue sky.  Occasionally the odd cloud would brush the tops of the buttes.  The terrain made me think how hard life must have been for the early settlers.  They only get six inches of rain a year here.

Monument Valley is just over the border from Arizona into Utah so there was a one hour time difference as Arizona has decided not to apply daylight saving time!  There is a 17 mile self-drive through the valley, but the track was rough and we were in the Mustang so didn’t dare embark on it.  The heat when we arrived was scorching so not a good time for walking.  Instead we sat on our balcony and drank in the view.  All the rooms at The View Hotel in the Navajo Tribal Park look out over Monument Valley.  It is one of the few options and the only one with a direct view of the valley.  It is owned and run by Native Americans so it provides employment meaning that people can stay close to their homeland and cling on to their culture.    

Every evening in the summer the hotel screens Wild West films that were made in the area, in an outside setting – John Wayne was showing when we were there – brought back many childhood memories! 

We sat and watched the sun going down – the buttresses and pinnacles taking turns to glow red and orange as the setting sun kissed them with its burning rays.  We slept with the curtain open so as not to miss sunrise, which seemed to begin at 4.30am.  The desert floor glowed as the sky turned from inky black to midnight blue.  The sun crept up peering above the first buttress before filling the valley with its glow. 

There is a four mile walking trail – the Wild Cat trail, but it was too hot to do it and we were in rattlesnake country.  If we had stayed for longer it would have been good to have gone out on horseback – the scenery really is suited to it.

Next stop was Flagstaff.  En route we stopped for lunch at Cameron Trading Post – the guacamole was delicious!  The ceiling of the restaurant was made of intricate moulded tin – we later learnt that as well as being decorative, tin ceilings are used to help stop fires spreading.  

Journey through Northern Arizona

Ten minutes from the green apple orchards of Julian we emerged into the blinding glare of the desert.    

The eight hour drive from Julian to the Grand Canyon was through a vast nothingness.  Much of it was along Route 78.  It wasn’t boring as the desert landscape was ever changing.  Just when you thought nothing could possibly survive in such a harsh environment you would arrive at a small town.  Weirdly there were lots of areas set up for camping cars parks or RV vehicles as they call them here – perhaps they are used in the winter months?  The temperature soared to 105^oF!  A huge inland lake, the Salton Sea, twinkled in the distance like a mirage.  We could see an area of green in the distance. It stood out for miles against the otherwise parched terrain, which stretched towards the distant horizon.  It turned out to be fields of grass being cultivated for hay.  There were hay bales everywhere.  Then we saw the reason – an industrial cow farm. I have never seen so many cows crammed into such a limited space.   We were stopped at a police checkpoint – Richard asked the reason for the check and was told that it was because highway 78 ran close to the Mexican border. 

Finally, we climbed up out of the desolate plains.  As the we gained height, the temperature dropped to a more manageable 90^oF.  The desert was soon forgotten as the road twisted through coniferous woods arriving at Prescott, a large town with manicured parks and a sense of purpose.   On the outskirts we passed ranches where the cattle roamed free.  Then, surprisingly, after this brief interlude, we were back out in the desert once again.  We drove through the town of Williams, on the original Route 66 and a popular stopping off point for the Grand Canyon as it’s only an hour away.  The town was overflowing with cheap motels, restaurants and tourists.

We were approaching the Grand Canyon from the south.  There were no clues as to what lay ahead.  I liked this surprise element.  It was $25 for a seven day pass to the National Park.   I sensed the Canyon long before I saw it, a breezy open abyss. Then I saw the pink hue of the rocks in the distance before the vista opened up.   Apparently most visitors only spend three to four hours visiting the Grand Canyon, so we were lucky as we were staying for three nights.  We stayed in the Yavapai Lodge complex.  It’s a mile away from Grand Canyon village and hence quieter.  A pleasant 15 minute walk through pine trees was all it took to get to the visitor centre and the rim (a shuttle bus also takes you there).

We embarked on the Southern Rim Trail and were pleased to have the path to ourselves for a lot of the time.  We were admiring the view (we did that a lot) when a condor soared through the air just in front of us – it was so close we could see its vivid red head.  Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera ready!  We had planned to do the walk in one day. However, although its an easy walk the heat got the better of us (they were having a heatwave) so we did the walk over two days.  Jet lag meant we were up in time to see the sunrise, although sunset was better.  On our last evening we walked to Shoshone Point – a quiet spot where we were able to watch the sun going down in solitary contemplation.  The Grand Canyon is a magical unforgettable place.