We
had heard most tourists headed for Krabi and that the beaches were
crowded. We therefore flew to Trang. Trang is famous for rubber, oil palms, fisheries and now underwater weddings! We stayed for one night in the Thumrin Thana Hotel a white monstrosity
overlooking the town. Trang didn’t detain
us so the next day we caught a taxi to Hat
Chang Lang and the Anantara Si Kao Resort.
We had booked to stay at the Anantara for four days. To be honest, it did feel like a resort, but
was big enough that it never felt overcrowded. The staff were attentive, friendly and
helpful. It was a great place to relax –
made more so by the fact we were upgraded to a suite! The hotel is set on the mouth of a river and
is exposed to tidal fluxes. At low tide
you can walk for 200/300 metres out into the ocean and all kinds of marine life
are exposed. At high tide sea offered perfect
swimming in crystal clear water. In the distance you can see small islands, their limestone cliffs rising from the Andaman Sea. It is possible to borrow kayaks from the hotel to explore the nearby mangroves.
Instead, we
borrowed bikes and explored the coast. From
Pak Meng pier down to the mouth of the Trang River runs approximately 30kms of lovely
beaches with surprisingly little development as the shoreline is part of Hat
Chao Mai National Park.
As the tide
turned and the sun set we would watch fishermen and women wade out into sea to
gather in their fishing nets and crab pots.
More often than not the nets would be empty.
Each day a speedboat would take guests to the
island of Ko Kradan. We were happy to
enjoy the tranquillity of the beach and pass on the trip, but on our last day
we decided to go. Ko Kradan has white
powder-like sand and turquoise water full of tropical fish. While snorkelling in shallow water I saw fish
in a myriad of colours. Unfortunately,
at midday boats arrive and disgorge huge numbers of visitors and the fantasy of
a deserted paradise island is shattered. However, if you are prepared to walk over to the other side of the island it is possible to find an empty beach. Be warned that if the sea is rough the ride back is bumpy and it’s best to sit in the back of the boat!
Displays made of the rubbish washed up on Ko Kradan |
All this plastic makes you think. |
Sawat dii kah Thailand! |