Limestone Country

The day held the promise of spring and so we set off to The Lot Valley to do walk number 4, Sur les traces d’Andre Breton in the book Le Lot a Pied.

Parking the car in the village of Bouzies in the Lot Valley the path was easy to find running by the river Lot.  It was a GR path so well marked with red and white flashes. It clung to the cliffs and, in places, there was overhanging rock making you feel as if you were walking in a three-sided tunnel, with the river Lot rushing by.  In places springs surge through the rock and tumble down to the river.  There was an inscription halfway along and shapes and animals had been carved into the rock.  The rock here had been polished smooth and shone like marble.  A tiny stone house, shuttered and closed for the winter, was surrounded by primulas growing profusely in the garden. 

The path then forked right and it was a climb up into St Cirq Lapopie.   The path kept going up and soon we were at the same level as the ancient viewpoint above the village.  It was then a mixture of track through the Causse and goat pasture, ending with a tarmac road leading back to Bouzies.  It was a fabulous three hour (although it only took us a little over two hours!) circular walk on a perfect day.

La Gomera - A Walkers' Paradise

We arrived on the island at night.  We were staying at the Hotel Tamahuche in the small town of Vallehermoso, located in the north of the island and an hour’s drive on sinuous, but well maintained roads.  I love arriving somewhere at night.  I enjoy the anticipation of wondering what the morning will bring.  It brought low grey cloud!  Standing on the terrace outside our room we marvelled at the steep terraced hillsides, neatly cultivated.  The tops of the hills disappeared into the mist.  It was a lush damp place, a place for growing things, primarily bananas, although oranges, lemons and avocado pears also grew locally.  Our host, Jordi, provided the best breakfast of the holiday.  He was an enthusiastic walker and talked animatedly about his favourite walks on the island. 

Having a car meant we were able to escape to the sunny south of the island.  The first walk was a two hour descent, full of sunny seascapes, goat bells and goat smells, into the small resort of Valle Gran Rey, where people were swimming in the sea.

The next day’s walk was more of a challenge - a circular four/six hour walk from Taco, a small hamlet on the outskirts of Playa Santiago, to Benchijigua.  It was a steady climb to Benchijigua, following the parched river bed.  It was like walking through a forgotten valley.  Presiding over the valley was Roque de Agando (1,251 mtrs).    It was a pretty walk with the first almond blossom flowering on the trees and exotic flowers and plants dotted over the hillside.  The sun was shining and the ascent made for thirsty work.  We had hoped there would be a bar at Benchijigua.  There wasn’t.  Benchijigua consisted of a clutch of abandoned and semi-occupied houses and a small white-washed chapel standing serenely on a promontory.  The door was locked.   The walk from Benchijigua was over a wide grassy path with wild purple flowers and lots of bees and bee hives.  The grassy path was soon replaced by rock and then an accent of 600 metres, which came as a bit of a surprise and made me realise how unfit I was.  Then it was all the way down until we met the road and followed it back to Taco.   

On both walks we were joined by Adrian and Zoe, a couple of keen walkers also staying at Tamahuche.  They were great companions, Richard had found someone who loved porridge as much as he did, and the time passed quickly as we chatted easily. 

On our last day we managed a short hike up to the highest point of the island, Garajonay (1,487 mtrs) where it was possible to see Tenerife's Mount Teide in the distance.  A huge forest fire devastated this area back in 2012, but already there were signs of regneration.  

There were signs to trails, including a GR (long distance) path, criss-crossing the island and our only regret was not being able to explore more of them.  La Gomera is a walkers’ paradise and we will be back.  

A snapshot of my walks on Tenerife

Mirador Pico del Ingles to Valleseco

Fear follows me on this walk.   It is misty and wet and clambering over the damp rocks is like walking on ice.  I fall, landing heavily on my right knee, but no bones are broken. Even so I'm frightened I'll fall again so I take my time and get slower and slower.   I am concentrating on getting down in one piece and before it gets dark and I don't have time to appreciate the beauty of the place - it feels like a forgotten valley.  I pick up my pace when I hear dogs barking close by and soon we arrive at Valleseco.  Luck is on our side - there is a bus waiting to take us back to Santa Cruz.

The Teide National Park

Walk 3 – Roques de Garcia (1h 30m)

Here the air is clear, the light sharp and when the wind drops the silence is complete.   The Roque de Garcia is a popular walk as it's not particularly long or arduous, but there are moments when I am on my own, an insignificant speck in this vast landscape.  I notice the air is thinner though and the short ascents take longer.  As I stop to rest a lone kestrel soars high above.

Walk 13 – Samara

I am buffeted by the wind as I plod head down up to the summit of Samara.  My feet sink into the loose scree.   I stand at the top and watch clouds drifting in far below.   In the distance the island of La Gomera can be seen like a shadow through the cloud.  Looking back towards Mt Teide the contrast of the luminous green of the trees against the arid landscape make me reach for my camera. 

Walk 2 – Arenas Negras (3h)

Up here the air is thin and snow still clings in places refusing to relinquish its wintry grip.   The soil is a sandy colour and easy underfoot.  An elusive chaffinch keeps us company for a while.  All is still.  The path twists through squat bushes of yellow and white broom.   Mt Teide is a towering and somewhat sinister presence, keeping us in its sights for most of the walk, making it impossible to get lost.  As the path gains height we can see the remains of the old collapsed crater and the landscape takes on a lunar appearance.

Walk 14 – Alto de Guamaso (1h 30m)

The path wends its way around the hill urging you to follow.  At this altitude it is easier to breath.  Below the clouds caress the pine forested hillside.  All too soon the walk is over.