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Tuesday, September 23, 2014

The Cirque de Navacelles

The Cirque de Navacelles
I’m not a fan of driving on narrow roads, especially steep, winding, uphill with the risk of rock-fall ones.  Luckily it was a Monday and there was little traffic around.  I drove slowly, the car inching forward, the road becoming narrower.  The road broadened as we got to the top.    The hair-raising drive had been worth it.  The view looking down towards the Cirque from the information centre was breath-taking.  There was a good restaurant here too and we sat tucking into homemade quiche and salad all the while, enjoying the stunning vista.  The imposing Cirque was formed millions of years ago when the River Vis eroded a deep channel through the base of the valley, creating an incised meander which eventually eroded through creating a cut-off at the neck of the loop.  This left an oxbow lake, which later dried up.  The lush emerald green grass, the only patch of arable land for many miles around, shows clearly where the water used to be.   


Having driven here it was now my turn to be a passenger.  The drive down deep into the Cirque didn't disappoint!  At the bottom there were small clusters of houses, clearly inhabited.  The houses were pinned in on all sides and I wouldn’t want to live here – busy with tourists in the day and then dark and deserted.  We were surprised to find a gift shop, creperie and an auberge.  The cascading river Vis made a thunderous sound as it went on its way down the hillside.  There had been storms a few days previously so the flow of water was impressive.   We climbed up to the top of the mound where a statute of the Virgin Mary presides.    A swarm of bees buzzed around the base of the statue where they had made a nest a good deterrent to would-be scramblers.    

View from the other side
The sinuous roads
After a cold drink at the auberge, we drove out and up the other side – the road not quite as tortuous as before.  We parked at a swanky new visitor centre to get another perspective on the view.  Unfortunately, it being a Monday, the posh new visitor centre was closed! 

The rushing River Vis

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