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Tuesday, September 23, 2014

The Cirque de Navacelles

The Cirque de Navacelles
I’m not a fan of driving on narrow roads, especially steep, winding, uphill with the risk of rock-fall ones.  Luckily it was a Monday and there was little traffic around.  I drove slowly, the car inching forward, the road becoming narrower.  The road broadened as we got to the top.    The hair-raising drive had been worth it.  The view looking down towards the Cirque from the information centre was breath-taking.  There was a good restaurant here too and we sat tucking into homemade quiche and salad all the while, enjoying the stunning vista.  The imposing Cirque was formed millions of years ago when the River Vis eroded a deep channel through the base of the valley, creating an incised meander which eventually eroded through creating a cut-off at the neck of the loop.  This left an oxbow lake, which later dried up.  The lush emerald green grass, the only patch of arable land for many miles around, shows clearly where the water used to be.   


Having driven here it was now my turn to be a passenger.  The drive down deep into the Cirque didn't disappoint!  At the bottom there were small clusters of houses, clearly inhabited.  The houses were pinned in on all sides and I wouldn’t want to live here – busy with tourists in the day and then dark and deserted.  We were surprised to find a gift shop, creperie and an auberge.  The cascading river Vis made a thunderous sound as it went on its way down the hillside.  There had been storms a few days previously so the flow of water was impressive.   We climbed up to the top of the mound where a statute of the Virgin Mary presides.    A swarm of bees buzzed around the base of the statue where they had made a nest a good deterrent to would-be scramblers.    

View from the other side
The sinuous roads
After a cold drink at the auberge, we drove out and up the other side – the road not quite as tortuous as before.  We parked at a swanky new visitor centre to get another perspective on the view.  Unfortunately, it being a Monday, the posh new visitor centre was closed! 

The rushing River Vis

Thursday, September 11, 2014

A Close Encounter.............!

The village of La Vinzelle is famous for its very large bell, La Campana Bella, but we were here to walk on the Sentier des Buissieres, which starts by the cemetery.   It is a two hour circular walk wending its way around the village with some short ascents and descents.  The prettiest point was high up when the path led through a carpet of purple heather.   The views up here were breathtaking.  At first the village was above us clinging to the hillside and then, as we gained height, we were satisfied to see it below us.



A little over halfway we heard voices and went to investigate.  It was a group of hunters, clad in bright orange, overlooking a field below the path.   We were surprised to see them as it was a main walking path, a Saturday and lunchtime!  The eldest hunter squinted at us and when we asked if it was dangerous for us to carry on along the path he said we should turn back.    We’ve never been good at going back!   We explained we wanted to continue – he looked a bit unsure and then two more walkers hurried by so he had no choice, but to let us carry on.  One of the hunters had a radio and said he would let the other hunters know we were on the path.  As we left, he wished us “bonne chance,” which was slightly disconcerting! 

I’ve never been fast at going downhill, but the risk of getting shot made my legs move more quickly.  I was pleased I was wearing a bright red top.  We could hear the dogs in the woods above us and then suddenly they were behind us.  Reaching a clearing, where we hoped we would be seen, we stood and watched, being sure to make lots of noise.  The hunting dogs had so much character and were surprisingly agile as they made their way over the rocks.  They were completely disinterested in us.  Their tails wagged enthusiastically as they picked up the scent of their prey, a fox which had rushed passed us in a blur a few minutes earlier.  We knew that the hunters were looking for sanglier (wild boar) not foxes.  Looking up I could see a lone hunter perched on an outcrop of rock like a bright orange sentinel.  As we shouted he spotted us and indicated with a wave of his gun that it was safe for us to continue.  

La Vinzelle
The rest of the walk passed uneventfully, thank goodness.  We arrived back at the village and went up to look at the famous bell.  A sign politely asks visitors to refrain from ringing the bell, although it was very tempting! 

Close by, the Auberge du Peyral (open April to September) was doing a roaring trade and we managed to get the last table.  We sat on the airy terrace tucking into delicious salads and sipping cold rose wine as the River Lot sparkled in the sunlight far below.
Auberge du Peyral
The start of the Sentier du Peyral a short circular walk - we did this too!



Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Getting away - eventually!

Have we lost the ability to just get up and go?  Now we check the weather forecast endlessly, research places to stay, pack some food – in the past we just went and took our chances and it always turned out well.  So on Friday, after a day of procrastinating when we decided that the Pyrenees were going to be too wet, the coast too busy and Spain too far for a weekend, we opted to stay closer to home.  One thing was certain, we had enjoyed our previous camping trip so much that we fancied another night or two under canvas.  We had, of course(!), done some research on the internet for suitable campsites and narrowed it down to two, both on the banks of the River Lot in the Northern Aveyron.  When we arrived at the first campsite the pitches were tiny and everything looked desolate.  The nearby town didn’t look any better, so we carried on up the valley towards the border with Cantal.  What a beautiful place it is.  The second campsite, Camping La Plaine, close to the pretty village of Saint Parthem, looked perfect.  The Dutch owner, told us to choose our pitch – things are very quiet at this time of year.   He also told us about a fabulous walk, the Sentier des Buissieres, (more on that in my next post).    

We pitched our tent overlooking the river and ate our picnic lunch in the sun.    The River Lot here is so different from the broad deep river we know further downstream.  We definitely had a room with a view and the sound of the river rushing by was soporific.  In the morning a family of wild boar were spotted on the opposite bank, but unfortunately we missed them - in the rush to get away we had forgotten to pack our binoculars!